Chapter 191 Another War
"Lombardy" Vanilla Italian wonton
This recipe from Bartolomeo Sgapi is a representative work of the Renaissance Milan-style pasta. "tortelli" (Italian wonton) is also called "tortelloni". The dishes prepared in this method are now popular in Lombardy and Emilia-Romagna.
Chop the leaves of beets and spinach; rinse in water several times, squeeze the water dry and set aside. Vegetable leaves in fresh butter, and add a little herbs, such as parsley or thyme when stewing. After turning off the heat, pour the mixture into a clay pot or a tinned copper pot, add the same amount of parmesan cheese (ground) and fresh ricota cheese, and season with pepper, cinnamon bark, cloves, saffron, raisins and crushed raw eggs. After mixing evenly, if it is too thin, add an appropriate amount of bread crumbs; if it is too dry, add a little butter. At this time, make a piece of dough, see Chapter 1. Place the above mixture on the dough, fold in half and squeeze both sides at the same time to make large or small Italian wontons; cook in rich broth, put on a plate, sprinkle with cheese, sugar and cinnamon bark.
The most prestigious part of the book "opera" is kitchen illustrations, which are used in most of the books published today about Renaissance cooking. Sgapi was in charge of the Vatican (Popular) kitchen at the time, and he was the first to describe the modern Renaissance kitchen. "opera" has many kitchen facilities, tools and small objects in copper-printed details such as a pasta cutter and a top-notch barbecue grill.
The illustrations in the book also show people the meal preparation procedure of the election of the Pope - to prevent the possibility of poisoning the diet, the process of preparing meals requires a high degree of safety. Each cardinal's food is prepared by his personal chef. Sgapi participated in this procedure and described it in detail in his book. "The food is served in a luxurious container decorated with the badges of each cardinal," Riley wrote, "After a team of four bishops, it was passed into the secret meeting room where the Cardinal Order was located by a rotating revolving door. All the wines are clearly marked and uniformly contained in glass containers. The whole pie or chicken is not allowed to enter, and all the food must be cut." - This is done to rule out the possibility of dangerous knives in the dining room, where the bishops may have the opportunity to collude with the waiters to criticize the Cardinal.
To illustrate the Italian culinary arts more clearly, Sgapi divided Italy into three parts: Lombardy (thepovalley), grandduchys and Rome, and "thekingdom" ("thekingdom") and Sicily. He focused on three cities: Milan, Rome and Naples, but at the same time, he also clearly expressed his familiarity with the cooking of Venice, Florence and Genoa. He was
The first writer to compare and analyze regional cuisine in Italy, only one of the hundreds of recipes contained in his book is called all’italiana (Italian), that is, pieceesofgrayling inbroth. As a Lombardian, many dishes of Sgapi can reflect Lombardy local traditions, such as Lombardy soup and Lombardy rice, as well as stuffed meat, pies and noodles have appeared many times in the book.
Venetian-style dishes are usually mainly fish, such as smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuffed squid (smallstuff
The delicious food includes puffpastry filled with squabmeat and cabbagesoup with mortadella. It is obvious that Sgapi understands that the emergence of regional cuisine in Italy is a phenomenon based on cities, and believes that the cities he chose are sufficient to represent the overall cooking style of the relevant regions, as they are the trading centers and food distribution centers in the region.
Unlike the works of Martino and Platina, Bartolomeo Sgapi's menu shows us the process of making salads and fruits into exquisite dishes, making them more suitable for luxurious banquets. Various salads and fruits are interspersed in each meal at the banquet, which can ease the rich texture of fish dishes prepared with a large amount of spices, and the appetite of the diners is revived.
Sgapi had a wide range of knowledge and even wrote about marinades and Arabic pastry. In his book, he recorded two hundred recipes for making waffles, shortbread and a cake called pizze. The exotic dishes recorded in "opera" also include molar couscous and German (alate desca) salmon. In the after-Renatrical era, Sgapi's later food writers did not try to summarize several major food cities on the Italian Peninsula and create a "national" cooking collection based on this. Instead, they chose to focus on a specific region to elaborate. For example, Lucernade Corteggiani, published in Naples in 1643, authored by Giovanni Batista Chrischi (
Giovanbattistacrisci. The book focuses on the food in southern Italy, especially cheese and fruit. It lists a detailed list of food products from Naples to Calabria to Sicily, which has never been before. The focus of the book is no longer big towns, but rural areas and small villages. In fact, when talking about southern cuisine, the only cities that Christi mentioned are Naples, the capital of the Kingdom of Naples, and the list is about the origin of fruits, such as peaches in Amalfi, apples in moiano, wild cherries in somma, salted ricota in capua, and fine mozzarella in aversa.
Sgapi's "opera" and the regional recipes recorded in the book triggered the creation trend of cookbooks that specialize in regional cuisine. Not only that, the authors of these cookbooks also dig deeper into the unique flavors of each region. Another writer also has a special liking for southern Italian cuisine, antoniolatini. Latini published a two-volume "The Modern Banquet Organizer - The Art of Planning and Organization of a Feast" in Naples between 1692 and 1694. The first volume is "The Brief Introduction of Naples", which mainly tells the story of "
The precious fruits and other precious specialties produced in different regions of the Kingdom of Naples are covered by the twelve provinces of the Kingdom. In addition, Latini also records the specialty foods of small villages in each province. For example, the poggioreale in campania supplies "exquisite fruits" to Naples; the chiai produces famous peas, cardoon, artichokes, carrots and wasabi (horseradish); ischia and capri produce "a large amount of pheasants" and "high-quality veal"; the principal cipatoula is "brainsausages".
In the Renaissance and later Italy, among the many wonderful cookbooks and other food literature, the works of Chrischi and Latini are well-deserved top-notch works. The last comprehensive and systematic collection of recipes that emerged during this period came from Latini. And in the late seventeenth and mid-eighteenth century, culinary literature ushered in a gap. “This silence,” explained food historians Albertocapatti and Massimomontanari, “reflecting the cultural inferiority experienced by Italians when French cuisine began to sweep across Europe, and the influence of this emotion proved to be profound.” Instead, it was “a return to local traditions and oral communication, both of which were the main tools for continuing the cultural traditions of the country.”
The most popular dish by Leonardo da Vinci
Many biographers of Leonardo da Vinci mentioned that Leonardo da Vinci's favorite dish is the Italian strong vegetable soup. The following dish is a Tuscan-style oscano, from Florence, the hometown of Leonardo da Vinci. When serving, it is served with a whole slice of toast and a little olive oil dipped in the bread. Traditionally, the pasta required to make this dish is rice-like, and you can use rice directly if you like.
9 cups of water
1 and 1/2 cups of dried white beans
Appropriate amount of salt
1 clove of garlic, need to be chopped
1/2 onion, minced
2 tablespoons tomato sauce
1 celery, minced
1 carrot, peeled and chopped
1/2 nest of cabbage, minced
2 leeks, minced
2 cucumbers (hini), need to be chopped
1 fresh basil (basil), chopped
1 Prune cloves
2 fresh rosemary branches, chopped
1/2 cup risono or zopasta
Boil water in a soup pot until boiling. Pour the white beans into it and cook for two hours. Remove half of the beans from the pot and sift over the pot. Cover the lid and set aside for later use.
Take a large pot, heat the oil, pour in garlic and onion and stir-fry for a minute on medium heat. Dilute the tomato sauce with a teaspoon of water and pour into the pot. At this time, pour in all the remaining ingredients and the prepared white bean soup, cover and simmer for 30 minutes.
For 4 people.
Braised chicken chestnut with sour juice
For this dish from Martino's "Cooking Arts" (about 1465), Gillian Riley, an expert in Renaissance cuisine, commented: "As the most delicious dish in the manuscript, its ease of operation reflects the new and simple cooking style of the Renaissance - simple seasoning, fresh texture and uncomplicated processing." If you cannot find immature grapes, add 1/8 cup of lemon juice when cooking with mature grapes. (Sour juice is made of juice from immature grapes, so the taste is sour.) When making saffron pollen, dry the saffron branches in the microwave and mash them in a pestle and mortar.
2 slices of bacon
4 pieces of chicken breast, bone removal and skin removal
1/2 cup chicken soup
24 large, half-ripe grapes, cut each in half from the middle, remove the seeds
1 tablespoon chopped Italian parsley
1 tablespoon chopped spearmint
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 small pinch of saffron
Boil the bacon in a frying pan to remove the oil, then remove the remaining bacon slices. Add the chicken breast and fry for 2 minutes on each side until golden brown. Pour out the excess oil in the pan, add the chicken soup and grapes. Then cover and simmer on slow heat for 20 minutes; after 20 minutes, remove the lid, add the remaining ingredients, and serve.
For 4 people.
Roasted lamb with saffron sauce
To make this dish, Martino said it would require "one/4 little goats", but in fact a little lamb leg is also possible. "All the meat on the little goat is suitable for cooking or grilling," Martino wrote: "But the tenderloin is best to be roasted." He also pointed out that the little goat "need to be eaten while it is hot". It should be served with risotto.
1 little lamb leg, weighing about 3 pounds
2 ounces of pork back, or bacon or Italian bacon, cut into small strips
6 cloves of garlic, cut into small pieces
Appropriate amount of salt
1 cup chicken soup
Half a lemon, juice
2 egg yolks
1/2 teaspoon powdered saffron (before microwave drying and then crushing)
2 cloves of garlic, chopped
1 tablespoon minced Italian parsley
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit.
Use a sharp knife to cut out several small holes of mutton, stuff a small piece of pork back and a small piece of garlic into each small hole. Sprinkle salt on the surface of the mutton evenly.
Pour chicken broth, lemon juice, egg yolks and chopped garlic in a cooking pot, stir-fry carefully, and simmer for 5 minutes.
Place the lamb on a baking tray and pour the mutton with the above sauce. Bake for 90 minutes, or until the internal temperature reaches 150 degrees Fahrenheit, when the lamb is just cooked. During the baking process, take it out every 15 minutes and re-spread the lamb with the sauce on the plate. Grill it, slice it, and serve it with an appropriate amount of leftover sauce. You may need to pour a little chicken soup into the baking tray to scrape out the sauce on the bottom of the baking tray.
For 6-8 people.
Candied Almond Egg Cake
Some food historians believe that this dessert is the predecessor of the diamond-shaped "calissonsd?aix" in the French city of Aix (Aix?en?provence). Martino added a very colorful note to it: "If you have a beautifully carved wooden mold, press this mold on the almond cake, the finished product will be more beautiful." Please note: This dish requires a more complicated preparation process.
Filling required:
2 cups of unblanched apricot kernels
1/2 cup rose dew
1 and 1/2 cup sugar
Dough Required:
1/2 cup flour
2 tablespoons of special sugar or castersugar
1 pinch of salt
2-3 tablespoons rose dew
When making fillings, put the almonds into a bowl, pour in boiling water that just flooded the almonds, and then pour out the water after it is cooled. The almonds need to be washed several times with water. Soak the almonds for a whole night and peel them easily the next day. Use a mixer or food processor to mix the peeled almonds with rose dew and sugar and beat until even and smooth.
Preheat the oven to 250 degrees Fahrenheit.
Mix flour, sugar, salt and enough rose to make a dough, knead it, and don't stick to your hands. Wrap the dough in a plastic bag and let it sit for an hour. Sprinkle a little flour on the cutting board and roll the dough until it is as good as possible with a knife to cut the rolled dough into small 2-inch squares. Place nearly a tablespoon of filling in the center of each piece of cut dough, and use a not-so-sharp knife to spread the filling evenly over the entire dough piece. Place the small dough pieces on a non-stick baking tray and bake for an hour. The finished product should be slightly golden and crispy.
Chapter completed!